How is traveling to North Korea?
I have spent a total of 46 days in the country over the last five years visiting all open areas and a few that are not as a tourism experiment to open some areas in the future. I like to ask people what they think after their first tour. Remember, most people are confined to the DMZ-Kaesong-Pyongyang-Mt. Myohyang corridor. More are getting out to Wonsan and Nampo these days and Mt. Paektu is getting more traffic.
What is it like? It is like rural China in many ways. I suppose if you come directly from a major city in the west and fly into Pyongyang it is quite a contrast. Well-traveled people who have viewed central Asia or rural Asia find it similar except for the ideological excess. There is familiarity for me because of my travels all over the socialist bloc prior to 1991.
Some say it is a total sensory overload. For Americans to believe you are actually it is somewhat incredible. For me as a teenager, you could go to the moon but China and North Korea were harder. Going to North Korea was like going to Mars. Some say you don't want to sleep because you want to take it all in. I leave the windows open just to hear the sounds of life. Now that I have been so much I can relax and stop photographing everything that moves and study the culture in depth.
There is an initial fear for those going in for the first time. When they used to separate out the Americans it was a bit difficult but we were treated as honored guests and it was embarrassing. We were heavily restricted even in Pyongyang in those days. Once you get an understanding of the place you are much more relaxed. I have taken 24,000 photos in the DPRK and while there are restrictions the guides tend to lighten up when they get to know you.
Critics say we are only taken to certain places and the country is hidden from tourists. That is a bunch of nonsense. Do you think they can hide everything? They are not that clever. The bus breaks down or you arrive early at a destination and life is going on. Some things are indeed planned and of course, they take you to isolated places so you cannot see some things. However, you can see the country as it is during travels or during opportunities that arise. If you go for an extended tour and get out of Pyongyang you will see more.
I do have some suggestions:
- Observe and listen. Do not try to correct the local guides or anyone else. Keep your opinions to yourself. Take it all in and ask questions to learn.
- Be respectful at all times. When they say buy flowers and bow to a statue, do so. When you are given an hour of propaganda take it all in. Isn't that what you are there for? Say, President Kim Il-sung and General Kim Jong-il. The guides will trust you more and the tour will go much smoother. You are in their country, respect it. Give praise to the beauty of the country or the sites. Goodwill goes a long way in Korea
- Be careful. Ask if you are not sure. The guides are there to help and they will become friends over time.
- Do not expect four-star accommodations. This is North Korea. I will sleep on the floor with the bugs in the dark and no water any day. If you go out into the countryside do not expect anything. Be surprised when you get hot water for 30 minutes. Who cares? I want to see the place.